Ingredients In (Anti-Aging) Cleanser And Toners
- (facial) skin cleanser active ingredients — surfactants
- anionic surfactants (harsh and irritating)
- fatty acids and fatty acid salts
- sulfonate and sulfate ions – “sodium-based”
- nonionic surfactants (less irritating)
- polysorbate
- Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20)
- PEG (Polyethylene Glycol) and PEG fatty acid Ester
- PEG-100 Stearate and PEG-2 Stearate, PEG-6 Stearate, PEG-8 Stearate, PEG-12 Stearate, PEG-20 Stearate, PEG-32 Stearate, PEG-40 Stearate, PEG-50 Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, PEG-150 Stearate) ar
- polysorbate
- silicone surfactants (non-irritating, noncomedogenic, hypoallergenic)
- dimethicone
- Dimethicone Copolyol
- Cyclomethicone
- Appendix: lathering agents (foaming agent)
- anionic surfactants (harsh and irritating)
- toners and astringent
- toners active ingredients (often alcohol free)
- Witch Hazel Extract
- Chamomile
- Cucumber
- alcohol
- astringent (alcohol based)
- toners active ingredients (often alcohol free)
Skin Cleansers
Cleansers (soap bar, liquid facial cleanser) uses surfactants to make fat and oil dirt soluble in order to remove them. Types of cleansers include soap, superfat soap, dermatological bars, liquid cleansers, anti-bacterial/septic washes, emulsion cleansers. Surfactants (surface-acting agents) are the major ingredients in most cleansers, making up 30 to 70 per cent of the product.
Most cleansers contain a combination of some of these ingredients: • Water • Surfactants (to emulsify dirt and debris) • Moisturizers (to hydrate and maintain the skin barrier) • Binders (to stabilize the cleanser’s ingredients) • Lathering agents • Fillers (used to harden bar soaps and cleansers) • Preservatives (to prevent growth of microorganisms) • Fragrance (usually to mask the odour of surfactants) • Dyes or pigments
Soap is the most commonly used cleanser. They are made from a combination of fats (of animal or vegetable origin), oils and salt, can plug hair follicles (pores). They can cause dryness and irritation due to anionic surfactants and disturbs the skin’s natural pH. They may leave a residue on skin.
Superfatted Soap/Beauty Bars contain additional moisturizing ingredients lanolin, tallow fat, coconut oil, sweet almond oil or glycerin to reduce dryness. They can plug hair follicles and disturb the skin’s natural pH, too. They can cause dryness and irritation due to anionic surfactants They may leave a residue on skin, too.
Dermatological Bars/Cakes are chemically different from soaps. They may contain additives to minimize the effect on skin’s pH. They also may include emollients to reduce dryness. In addition, they may contain anti-acne ingredients such as benzoyl peroxide.
Liquid cleansers generally are mild and less irritating. They often contains humectant glycerin, acetyl alcohol or propylene glycol for moisture retention. They are not considered soap as they have no fatty acids or alkalis. They have a pH similar to normal skin. Rinse off well, decreasing potential for skin reactions. They may contain anionic, non-ionic or silicone surfactants. They may leave a fine moisturizing film on the skin and is effective in removing cosmetics.
A well-designed liquid facial cleanser will use nonionic and silicone surfactants. Nonionic surfactants such as polysorbate have a low risk of irritation and are pH-compatible with the skin. Silicone surfactants, such as dimethicone, penetrate follicles and crevices to bring dirt to the surface while softening skin and creating a protective film. Silicone surfactants are non-irritating, noncomedogenic and hypoallergenic.
Anti-Bacterial/Septic Washes are generally similar to liquid cleansers. Some are acne cleanser used to treat acne. They may contain alcohol, antiseptic or antibacterial agents such as benzoyl peroxide. The active ingredients can dry and irritate skin.
Emulsions cleansers are milky liquid cleansers, cold creams and cleansing creams. They may contain a mixture of emollients (mineral oil, petroleum), water, and some waxes. They are often gentle on skin, may plug follicles. They do not usually affect the skin’s pH. They moisturize your skin.
Cleanser tolerance is an issue for people with skin conditions such as eczema, rosacea, acne, psoriasis, skin rashes and sensitive skin. Although liquid facial cleansers are formulated to be less irritating to the skin, some ingredients may disrupt the skin moisture barrier or cause sensitivity. Harsher cleansers can disrupt this barrier, as well as irritate the skin and affect the skin’s natural acidic pH. Generally, surfactants, fragrances and preservatives are the primary sources of skin irritations. Anionic surfactants (containing carboxylate, sulfonate and sulfate ions – “sodium-based”) are potent irritants.
sodium lauryl sulfate
There has been a great deal of misinformation circulated on the Internet about sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). Used primarily as a detergent cleansing agent, SLS can be derived from coconut. Although it is a potent skin irritant it is not toxic or dangerous for skin. In concentrations of 2% to 5%, SLS can cause allergic or sensitizing reactions for many people. It is used as a standard in scientific studies to establish irritancy or sensitizing properties of other ingredients. Being a skin irritant, however, is not the same as a link to cancer, which is what erroneous warnings on the Internet are falsely claiming about this ingredient! It has a history of safe use in Canada. Health Canada considers SLS safe for use in cosmetics. Further, according to the American Cancer Society’s Web site, “Contrary to popular rumors on the Internet, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) do not cause cancer. A search of recognized medical journals yielded no published articles relating this substance to cancer in humans.”
Toners And Astringent
In the triumvirate of skin care (cleanser, toner, moisturizer), toner maintains its mystery more than any other product. Although most of us know when to apply it — after cleansing, but before moisturizing — what it does for your complexion is less obvious.
Toners are important because it is an extension of the cleansing process and it also helps to ensure the skin is balanced (skin’s pH 5.5) before applying the next steps in a (anti-aging) skin care program. If the skin is balanced, it will more easily “accept” the next product to be applied to the skin. Also, toners today have the additional benefit, depending on how it’s formulated, to hydrate, exfoliate or soothe the skin as well. I like toners to be applied directly to a cotton ball and swiped on the skin for the most benefit after cleansing but toners can also be sprayed directly on the skin after mineral powders are applied to the skin to help “set” the minerals and help them adhere to the skin.
Toners are part of the cleansing process and benefits are threefold; 1) Toners, if applied with a cotton ball and swiped across the skin, can remove any cleanser left on the skin 2) Toner, if applied with a cotton ball and swiped across the skin can remove any dirt left on the skin the cleanser missed and 3) Toners are balancing, helping the skin maintain its normal pH 5.5. Toner may also help restore skin’s naturally acidic pH. Since many soaps and cleansers are alkaline, applying a slightly acidic solution like a toner can help keep skin balanced. Toners today also have other benefits with ingredients added to their formulations to hydrate, exfoliate or soothe the skin.
Two bottles contain the same ingredients, but one says “toner” and the other “astringent.” What’s the difference? In general, astringents are alcohol-based and better suited to oily, nonsensitive skin types. In contrast, toners are often alcohol-free and therefore suitable for dry, sensitive, and mature skin. However, don’t let the label be your only guide: Check the ingredients to find out whether the product contains alcohol — and avoid this if it doesn’t suit your skin type. Plus, using toners with antioxidants, such as vitamin C, can help protect skin from wrinkle-causing free radicals.
Commercial toners are generally alcohol-based and wreak havoc on dry skin. In fact, some 95% of all commercial toners contain drying alcohol. (Many even contain acetone, the chemical that removes nail polish.). Alcohol dries out the surface of the skin by removing water and stripping all of the natural oils from the surface of the skin. For this reason, better not to use a toner or exfoliating scrub without a moisturizer – toning alone could worsen dryness in dry skin types. Because they contain more water than their cousin, astringents, toners are actually better for dry skin. Using a proper skin care toner for dry skin is necessary. When looking for a dry skin toner, choose a mild, alcohol-free, hydrated toner, specifically formulated for dry skin. The toner should combine natural ingredients and herbal extracts to calm and soothe dry skin, as harsh chemicals will only irritate dry skin even more. Here are some toning ingredients to look out for dry skin toners: Witch Hazel Extract, Chamomile, Cucumber and Rose Oil. They contain hydrating properties which can only be good for dry skin. Sometimes, menthol, witch hazel, glycerin, camphor, tea tree oil, and alum are added to have more benefits.
witch hazel can have potent antioxidant properties and some anti-irritant properties. However, according to the Consumer’s Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients, “Witch hazel has an ethanol [alcohol] content of 70 to 80 percent and a tannin content of 2 to 9 percent. Witch hazel water … contains 15% ethanol.” The alcohol can be an irritant. Witch hazel’s high tannin content (and tannin is a potent antioxidant), can also be irritating when used repeatedly on skin, although when used for initial swelling from burns it can reduce inflammation.