How To Choose And What To Look For in Microdermabrasion Creams

The abrasive cream is, without a doubt, the most important ingredient in a personal microdermabrasion kit. Most systems available today use an abrasive cream with one exception — Dermapower, which only uses a battery-operated hand-held tool, similar to the ones used in clinics and spas.

I believe corundum (aluminum oxide) crystals are the best abrasive ingredient because they are second only to diamonds in terms of hardness (which ensures an effective peeling effect). Some kits use crushed pearls (which makes them expensive), bicarbonate sodium crystals (which can be too soft, but more suitable for sensitive skin), and even pumice crystals (one of the most abrasive types of crystals). Usually, the more irregular the surface of these crystals, the better the peeling effect.

Some scrubs like Derma-E use a blend of different crystal types (aluminum oxide crystals, silica crystals, pumice crystals and pearl powder) in order to increase effectiveness, but this can make the cream overly abrasive.

While some companies like Derma-E use micro-crystal blends, others combine the abrasive power of micro crystals with mild acids, in order to enhance the exfoliating effect of their product. The double peeling effect which results can, indeed, be more effective but it can also cause damage to some skin types. The best microdermabrasion creams, in my opinion, only use mechanical exfoliation based on a single type of micro-crystals (preferably aluminum oxide crystals).

There are other ingredients besides crystals to watch out for. For example, some creams also use natural extracts, antioxidants and anti-inflammatory ingredients (green tea, grape seed and wine, wheat germ, jojoba, bamboo, cucumber and almond extracts) designed to help sensitive and normal skin types cope with the peeling. Products with many natural ingredients are less allergenic and less likely to cause irritations which is why I prefer them. One such product is Dermanew.

Some companies also add vitamins to their microdermabrasion creams (particularly K, E and C). One vitamin I would stay away from, though, is Vitamin A because it causes the skin to exfoliate. Coupled with the mechanical peeling from microderm, Vitamin A triggers a double-peeling effect which can actually damage the skin. Vitamin K, on the other hand, is very good — it helps the skin’s natural recovery while Vitamin E restores elasticity in the skin. Vitamin C helps boost collagen production and protects the skin from free-radical damage.

A common complaint about microderm abrasion cream formulas is that they’re oily. If you use it in the evening, though, it’s more bearable (no one can see your face shine like a bulb).

The most common complaint about microdermabrasion creams, though, is that they cause adverse reactions like irritations or breakouts. Often, this is because the micro dermabrasion cream uses chemicals and irritants which don’t suit a freshly peeled skin. Some companies try to counter such side effects by making it less abrasive (less abrasion means the skin is less sensitive to chemicals) but this doesn’t always work.

How To Use Microderm Abrasion Creams?

There are several ways to use a microderm cream: you massage it into the skin using your bare hands, sponge or a special vibrating micro dermabrasion tool.

According to most kit instructions, home microderm takes around 10 minutes from start to finish. You first prepare your skin for exfoliation and then use the microdermabrasion cream for a few minutes. You can use your microderma abrasion kit in the evening or morning (I like to have it at night and be surprised – or disappointed, as may be the case – with the results the following morning).

I’ve found that most micro dermabrasion cream formulas can be used on dry or damp skin and must be massaged with slow, upward motions for about 3 minutes. One mistake many women make (myself included) is to overdo it with the abrasion. The crystals are very fine and you may not feel them at the time but they are working. Too much pressure or prolonged abrasion can damage the skin, cause irritations or even injuries.

Most micro dermabrasion creams are designed for use on the face but can also be used on other body areas (unless otherwise stated). There are also about 3 body microdermabrasion creams available. Whatever you do, please don’t use them on the face. The skin on your body is thicker and requires more aggressive peeling. Using a body microdermabrasion cream on your face may cause irritation or breakouts due to the advanced peeling effect.