Herbs And Botanicals Extracts In Anti-Aging Cream -
Madagascar Ambiaty Extract
One of the main ingredients featured in RawSkinCare Ambiaty concentrated serum (RAW Skin Care line from RAW Natural Beauty) is extract from the Ambiaty plant. Ambiaty Extract is a rare plant extract from the rainforest of Madagascar known to stimulate continuous collagen production for more resilient, youthful-looking skin. the Ambiaty plant (Vernonia appendiculata) is difficult to reach due to its limited availability in remote areas of the Madagascar rainforest. The leaves are carefully hand-picked during the rainy season, when the bioactive phenolics have reached peak concentration. Once the Ambiaty is harvested, it goes through an extensive distillation process to ensure optimum purity and potency.
The Ambiaty Extract contains many different anti-aging properties. The Ambiaty is sometimes referred to as “the flower of youth”. The flower is capable of stimulating collagen production, helps protect the extra-cellular matrix and collagen network of the skin, is high in antioxidants, and protects cells from free-radical damage.
Bayer’s Serdex division has introduced and marketed Ambiaty extract. [INCI: Water (&) glycerin (&) Vernonia appendiculata leaf extract] is a solution of Vernonia appendiculata extract in a glycerin-water blend. Traditionally the plant is used in Madagascar in wound healing and to treat stomach ache. This is the company’s first liquid extract, which is not a simple extraction but a purified extract that is then solubilised to aid formulation. The vegetal extract from the wild plant is titrated in phenolic compounds and the high content of glycerin in the blend means it does not require added preservative. Bayer says the extract offers impressive properties for dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) repair and dermis stimulation, capable of activating both keratinocyes and fibroblast for DEJ compounds synthesis. For example, it is said to improve skin cohesion thanks to the activation of the systhesis of Laminin V and Cytokeratin 14, leading to restoration of the functional interface. Ambiaty extract is also said to increase the glycosoaminoglycans content and reduce MMP-1.
The DEJ is first a support for the epidermis. It also gives structure to the skin due to its high Collagen IV content and aids skin communication between the papillar dermis and the epidermis. Finally, it is essential for skin cohesion between the epidermis and dermis. Aging impacts the DEJ in all its functions, with the flattening of the DEJ leading to fewer exchanges between the epidermis and dermis, wrinkle formation and weakened epidermal support.
“The main active substances of Ambiaty Extract are chlorogenic acid and isochlorogenic acid (both are phenolics). A patent application has been submitted regarding the properties of the Ambiaty extract that have been discovered for the repair of the DEJ, activation of the dermis and the related cosmetic claims.
Ambiaty extract targets both the epidermis and dermis for improvement of the skin’s condition thanks to the reinforcement of the DEJ and the strengthening and protection of the dermal ECM (extracellular matrix) and Collagen network. Tests performed in vitro or ex vivo show clearly the increase of the synthesis of the proteins typical of the DEJ and the dermis structures (Collagen IV, Laminin 5, GAGs) as well as the regulation of the damaging effects of free radicals and MMPs.
More specifically, Ambiaty targets keratinocytes by increasing their synthesis of cytokeratin 14 and Laminin 5. This results in a reinforced epidermal attachment to the DEJ and restores the functional interface (communication and nutrition) between the epidermis and dermis. Ambiaty also targets fibroblasts by activating collagen synthesis (230%), which results in firmer, smoother, more supple skin. Ambiaty is also a powerful anti-oxidant, so it is able to protect cells (and collagen) from free radical attack and MMPs.
If skin biopsies are treated with a 1% Ambiaty Extract emulsion, positive effects are seen after 10 application days. For example, stimulation of cytokeratin 14, Laminin 5, Collagen IV and glucosaminoglycan (GAGs) synthesis were demonstrated.
Using Ambiaty Extract can achieve an improvement in the skin cohesion and a fortification of the boundary between the epidermis and dermis. As such, the ageing processes of the skin can be countered at a cellular level.”