Exfoliation And Peeling Ingredients

–Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA): glycolic acid and lactic acid

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA), fruit acids

• glycolic acid
• lactic acid
• citric acid (3-hydroxypentanedioic acid-3-carboxylic acid)
• malic acid
• tropic acid (3-Hydroxy-2-phenyl-propionic acid)

Exfoliation via chemical means — Alpha hydroxy acid

Alpha hydroxy acid are derived from various plant sources or from milk. However, 99% of the AHAs included in cosmetics are synthetic. In low concentrations (less than 3%) AHAs work as water-binding agents. At concentrations over 4%, these can exfoliate skin cells by breaking down the substance in skin that holds skin cells together. The most effective and well-researched AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Malic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid may also be effective, but are less stable and less skin-friendly; there is little research showing that they have any benefit for skin. AHAs may irritate mucous membranes and cause irritation. However, AHAs are widely used for therapy of photodamaged skin, and also have been reported to normalize hyperkeratinization (over-thickened skin) and to increase viable epidermal thickness and dermal glycosaminoglycans content. Many of the unwanted changes in skin aging can be improved by topical application of AHAs, including glycolic and lactic acid.

One of the most effective chemical exfoliating ingredients is glycolic acid. Glycolic Acid (Alpha-hydroxy acids) have been around for about 20 years and is also known as fruit acid. It markedly improves skin quality by their exfoliative action. The effect of the topical application of these fruit acids was the disappearance of fine lines and wrinkles and a fresher looking tone to the skin. It was found that Hydroxy acids are not just an exfoliant, but also a stimulator of collagen production and cell growth. In addition, they have been found to reduce cancer.

Glycolic acid can be used in combination with salicylic acid (another powerful exfoliating ingredient). A few advanced products take it a step further by combining a physical agent along with these chemical exfoliators. These particles provide an additional level of cleansing by physically buffing away dirt on your skin’s surface. Look for products that contain particles that are small or in bead-form (e.g. jojoba beads), so they won’t dig into your pores and cause redness, swelling and irritation.

Although AHA is great at exfoliating the top layer of dead skin cells for a smoother, fresher appearance, these dead cells also act as a protective cover to healthy, sensitive cells underneath. Because AHAs exfoliate sun-damaged skin from the surface of the skin, and because this layer imparts some (albeit minimal) sun protection for skin, there is a risk of increased sun sensitivity after using an AHA. However, wearing a sunscreen eliminates this risk. While you don’t get a sunburn directly from these ingredients, the new cells they reveal are more susceptible to sunburns so it’s important to wear a sunscreen of SPF 30 to provide your skin with adequate protection. Exfoliating your skin actually promotes a more even tan later on, but try not to exfoliate a day or two before you head out into the sun.

NeoStrata is the company that holds a patent on glycolic acid as an antiwrinkle agent, as well as a patent for gluconolactone for reducing the appearance of wrinkles.

Glycolic Acid is a AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) which promotes exfoliation and a natural brightening of the skin tone. By encouraging cell turnover, glycolic acid not only evens out skin discolorations, but also helps to minimize fine lines and wrinkles. AHA’s such as Glycolic Acid can assist other ingredients in skin lighteners by allowing them to penetrate farther into the skin. Also an AHA (alpha hydroxy acid), Lactic acid mimics the properties of Glycolic acid but is typically better suited for individuals with sensitive skin. AHA’s such as Lacic Acid can assist other ingredients in skin lighteners by allowing them to penetrate farther into the skin.