Skin Care Cosmetics Ingredients Glossary

D

D&C. According to the FDA, D&C is an identification that indicates a coloring agent has been approved as safe in drug and cosmetics products, but it does not apply to food.

daisy flower extract. There is no research showing this extract has any benefit for skin. Also known as tansy, it can cause severe contact dermatitis and is considered unsafe for topical application.

dandelion extract. Can be a potent allergen.

Daucus carota. Also known as wild carrot. It can have antioxidant properties, but applied topically it can cause dermatitis.

DEA. See diethanolamine.

DEA oleth-10 phosphate. Used as an emulsifying agent, which is a group of ingredients essential to most cosmetic formulations because they can keep unlike ingredients mixed together smoothly (a prime example is oil and water).

Dead Sea minerals. Several studies demonstrate that Dead Sea minerals can have a positive effect on psoriatic skin. Psoriasis is a skin condition characterized by rapidly dividing, overactive skin cells. No one is quite sure how the Dead Sea minerals and salts affect psoriasis. One of the more popular theories regarding their benefit is that the mineral content of the water slows down the out-of-control cell division. Some research indicates that the benefit is cumulative and that the results can last for up to five months. However, there is no research showing that these minerals have any effect on wrinkles, dry skin, or acne.

decyl glucoside. Used as a gentle detergent cleansing agent. See surfactant.

dehydroepiandrosterone. See DHEA.

deionized/demineralized water. Filtered water used in cosmetics. All water used in cosmetic formulations goes through this process to remove components that could interfere with a product’s stability and performance.

denatured alcohol. See alcohol.

deoxyribonucleic acid. See DNA.

detergent cleansing agent. See surfactant.

deuterium oxide. See heavy water.

dextran. Polysaccharide that has water-binding properties for skin. See also mucopolysaccharide.

dextrin. Carbohydrate that is classified as a polysaccharide. It is used as an adhesive when mixed with water. For skin it can have water-binding properties.

DHA. See dihydroxyacetone.

DHEA. Also called prasterone and dehydroepiandrosterone, DHEA is a naturally occurring prohormone that is converted in the body primarily to androgens (male hormones), and to a lesser degree to estrogens. It is controversial as an oral supplement because long-term use has been associated with women developing secondary masculine traits, liver damage, disrupted menstrual cycles, and defects in fetuses. More superficial risks include hair loss, acne, and weight gain. Topically, it is possible that DHEA can increase collagen production and prevent collagen destruction by decreasing matrix metalloproteinases (MMP), but the research about this is extremely limited and the studies that do exist were performed only on a handful of people.

diatomaceous earth. Light-colored porous rock composed of the skeletons of minute sea creatures called diatoms. Typically used as an abrasive material in scrub products.

diazolidinyl urea. Formaldehyde-releasing preservative (Source: Contact Dermatitis, December 2000, pages 339–343). See formaldehyde-releasing preservative.

dibutyl phthalate. Very common ingredient in almost every nail polish and synthetic fragrance sold today. It is used as a plasticizer and is a key component in giving nail polish its unique properties. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) published the National Report on Human Exposure to Environmental Chemicals—Results for Mono-butyl phthalate [which is] (metabolized from Dibutyl phthalate). The report noted that measurable levels of phthalate were found in the urine of the participants in the study. However, the CDC also stated that “Finding a measurable amount of one or more phthalate metabolites in urine does not mean that the level of one or more phthalates causes an adverse health effect. Whether phthalates at the levels of metabolites reported here are a cause for health concern is not yet known; more research is needed”. In animal tests, dibutyl phthalate has been shown to produce detrimental effects. The Environmental Working Group (EWG), an environmental research organization, found that “DBP is a developmental and reproductive toxin that in lab animals causes a broad range of birth defects and lifelong reproductive impairment in males [when] exposed in utero and shortly after birth. DBP damages the testes, prostate gland, epididymis, penis, and seminal vesicles. These effects persist throughout the animal’s life.” At this time, there is no conclusive or agreed-upon research pointing to phthalates being a problem for humans.

Dicaprylyl carbonate. An emollient ingredient that may be derived from synthetic or animal sources. It spreads easily and leaves a velvety feel on skin without seeming greasy or slick. It also helps other ingredients penetrate skin better.

diethanolamine. Colorless liquid used as a solvent and pH adjuster. Also used as a lather agent in skin- and hair-care products when coupled with a foaming or detergent cleansing agent. In 1999 the National Toxicology Program (NTP) completed a study that found an association between cancer and tumors in laboratory animals and the application of diethanolamine (DEA) and certain DEA-related ingredients to their skin. For the DEA-related ingredients, the NTP study suggested that the carcinogenic response is linked to possible residual levels of DEA. However, the NTP study did not establish a link between DEA and the risk of cancer in humans. According to the FDA (Source: Office of Cosmetics and Colors Fact Sheet, December 9, 1999), “Although DEA itself is used in very few cosmetics, DEA-related ingredients (e.g., oleamide DEA, lauramide DEA, cocamide DEA) are widely used in a variety of cosmetic products. These ingredients function as emulsifiers or foaming agents and are generally used at levels of 1% to 5%. The FDA takes these NTP findings very seriously and is in the process of carefully evaluating the studies and test data to determine the real risk, if any, to consumers. The Agency believes that at the present time there is no reason for consumers to be alarmed based on the usage of these ingredients in cosmetics. Consumers wishing to avoid cosmetics containing DEA or its conjugates may do so by reviewing the ingredient statement required to appear on the outer container label of cosmetics offered for retail sale to consumers.” A study from 1999 on the potential effects of DEA involved applying a pure concentration of this ingredient directly to mouse skin for a period of 14 weeks (minimum) and 2 years (maximum). The study reported no evidence of carcinogenicity when low doses (50–100 mg per kilogram of body weight) were used. Internal changes to organs (liver, kidneys) and external signs (inflammation, ulcers) were found as the dosages of DEA increased (up to 800 mg was used). Although the results of this study are interesting, it is still unrelated to how DEA is used in cosmetics products and how consumers use them. In most instances, our contact with DEA in any form is brief, and most likely is not cause for alarm.

diethylhexyl malate. Emollient and skin-conditioning agent derived from the solvent ethyl hexanediol.

Dihydroxyacetone (DHA): The FDA approved active ingredient in topical self-tanning products. This is a harmless skin dye that reacts with an amino acid in the skin or sweat to produce a temporary tan that flakes off as you shed skin. The higher the concentration, the more orange the tan will appear. Does not offer any skin protection against the sun.

diisopropyl adipate. Used as a film-forming agent, emollient, and skin-conditioning agent.

diisostearoyl trimethylolpropane siloxy silicate. Skin-conditioning agent in the silicone family. See silicone.

dimethicone. See silicone.

dimethicone copolyol. See silicone.

dimethicone crosspolymer. Silicone derivative used as a stabilizing or suspending agent or as a thickener. See silicone.

dimethiconol. See silicone.

dimethyl capramide. Functions as a stabilizer and solvent in cosmetics.

dimethyl ether. Colorless gas used as a propellant in aerosol products. It is toxic if inhaled and can be irritating to skin (Source: Handbook of Cosmetic and Personal Care Additives, Second Edition, volume 2, 2002, Synapse Information Resources, Inc.).

dimethyl MEA. See dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE).

dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE), known chemically as 2-dimethyl-amino-ethanol, has been available in Europe under the product name Deanol for over 30 years. Although anti-aging treatment studies on DMAE have not been extensive, the results demonstrate positive rejuvenating effects in skin firming properties, the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles, improving moisture content, and in improving sagging skin. Good results with DMAE are found when used in combination with vitamin enriched anti-aging ingredients such as Reviva Lab’s Alpha Lipoic Acid, Vitamin C and DMAE Cream.

Dioscorea villosa extract. See wild yam extract.

dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate. Mixture of fatty acids used as an emollient and thickening agent.

dipotassium glycyrrhizinate. See anti-irritant and licorice extract.

di-PPG-3 myristyl ether adipate. Derivative of myristyl alcohol (a fatty alcohol) and adipic acid (a buffering and neutralizing ingredient). It is used as a skin-conditioning agent and solvent in cosmetics.

disodium cocoamphodiacetate. Mild detergent cleansing agent. See surfactant.

disodium diglyceryl phosphate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester.

disodium EDTA. See EDTA.

disodium glyceryl phosphate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester.

disodium lauraminopropionate. A mild surfactant. See surfactant.

disodium rutinyl disulfate. No research shows this antioxidant has any impact on cellulite.

disteardimonium hectorite. Used as a suspending agent, often with pigments.

DMAE. See dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE).

DMDM hydantoin. Formaldehyde-releasing preservative (Source: Household and Personal Products Industry, May 2001, “Preserving Personal Care and Household Products”). See formaldehyde-releasing preservative.

DNA. Abbreviation for deoxyribonucleic acid. DNA is found in all cells. It is the primary component of genes—and genes are the means by which cells transmit hereditary characteristics.

docosahexaenoic acid. See fatty acid.

dog rose. See rose hip.

dogwood. There is a small amount of research showing that dogwood has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties (Source: Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, April 2002, pages 2519–2523).

dong quai. Latin name Angelica polymorpha sinensis, is an herb that has been shown in some studies to have estrogenic activity and a positive effect in mitigating menopausal and pre-menopausal symptoms, although several other studies disprove this. There is also research showing that it can stimulate the growth of breast cancer cells (Source: Menopause, March–April 2002, pages 145–150) and research indicating it has antioxidant properties. There are no studies showing that dong quai has any effect topically on skin.

Dromiceius oil. See emu oil.

dulse. See algae.

Durian. A tropical fruit that research has shown to be a potent antioxidants when consumed orally. It contains high levels of antioxidants such as caffeic acid and quercetin, and likely has topical benefit as well, though this hasn’t been proven (Sources: Food and Chemical Toxicology, February 2008, pages 581-589; and Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, July 2007, pages 5,842-5,849).

Durvillaea antarctica extract. Extract derived from a species of algae (Durvillea antarctica). See algae.