Skin Care Cosmetics Ingredients Glossary

E

ecamsule. See Mexoryl SX.

ectoin. Skin-conditioning agent that also functions in cosmetics as a stabilizer. There is limited research demonstrating that ectoin helps protect skin from UVA damage and has efficacy and application characteristics that women tend to prefer in moisturizers. However, the research did not reveal to what the effects of ectoin were compared, or whether or not other ingredients (such as green tea or pomegranate extracts) may provide even better protection from environmental damage.

EDTA. Acronym for ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, a stabilizer used in cosmetics to prevent ingredients in a given formula from binding with trace elements (particularly minerals) that can exist in water and with other ingredients to cause unwanted product changes to the texture, the odor, and the consistency. The technical term for ingredients that perform this function is chelating agent.

egg yolk. Egg yolk is mostly water and lipids (fats), especially cholesterol, which makes it a good emollient and water-binding agent for skin.

eicosapentaenoic acid. Fatty acid derived from salmon oil; it is a good emollient for skin. It has also been shown to inhibit collagen breakdown and improve cell function. See fatty acid.

Elaeis guineensis. See palm oil.

elastin. Major component of skin that gives it flexibility. Sun damage causes elastin in skin to deteriorate. Elastin can be derived from both plant and animal sources and is used in cosmetics as a good water-binding agent. Elastin in cosmetics has never been shown to affect the elastin in skin or to have any other benefit, although it most likely functions as a water-binding agent.

elderberry. Has potent antioxidant properties.

elecampane. Latin name Inula helenium; it is a plant that can be very irritating to the skin and can trigger allergic reactions.

emollient. Supple, waxlike, lubricating agents that prevent water loss and have a softening and soothing effect on the skin.

emu oil. The emu is a large, flightless bird indigenous to Australia, and emu oil has become an important component of the Australian economy. As a result there is research from that part of the world showing it to be a good emollient that can help heal skin; however, there is no research showing it has any anti-aging or anti-wrinkling effects. Emu oil’s reputation is driven mostly by cosmetics company claims and not by any real proof that emu oil is an essential requirement for skin.

English ivy extract. Can be a skin irritant due to its stimulant and astringent (skin-constricting) properties.

ensulizole. Sunscreen agent, formerly known as phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid. Ensulizole is the established name that must be used on sunscreen labels (Source: www.fda.gov). It is primarily a UVB-protecting sunscreen agent, providing only minimal UVA protection. Ensulizole protects the skin from wavelengths of UV light in the range 290 to 340 nanometers, whereas the UVA range is 320 to 400 nanometers (Source: United States Pharmacopeia (USP), http://www.uspdqi.org/pubs/monographs/sunscreen_agents.pdf). For complete protection, this ingredient (as well as many other UVB-protecting sunscreen ingredients) must be paired with the UVA-protecting ingredients avobenzone (also called Parsol 1789 and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or Mexoryl SX; outside the United States it can also be paired with Tinosorb. Because ensulizole is water-soluble, it has the unique characteristic of feeling lighter on skin. As such, it is often used in sunscreen lotions or moisturizers whose aesthetic goal is a non-greasy finish (Source: www.emedicine.com/derm/topic510.htm).

Enteromorpha compressa extract. Extract from green algae. See algae.

enzymes. Vast group of protein molecules, produced by all living things, that act as catalysts in chemical and biological reactions.Enzymes are divided into six main categories, including oxidoreductases, transferases, hydrolases, lyases, isomerases, and ligases.

epidermal growth factor (EGF). Stimulates cell division of many different cell types. There is research showing it to be helpful for wound and burn healing. There is also research showing that its effect is no different from that of a placebo and that it may not be effective at all. It can have anti-inflammatory properties when applied to skin, although it also can promote tumor growth. In general, the potentially frightening consequences of growth factors can come into play when they are taken internally, as in certain cancer treatments (interleukin and interferon are growth factors), because they can be highly mitogenic (causing cell division), and at certain concentrations and lengths of application can cause cells to overproliferate. This overabundance of cells causes problems, one result of which is cancer. No one is exactly certain what happens when EGFs are applied to healthy, intact skin, but there is concern that with repeated use EGFs can cause skin cells to overproduce, and that’s not good (psoriasis is an example of what happens when skin cells overproduce). All of the research that does exist on EGFs has primarily studied their short-term use for wound healing. See human growth factor.

epigallocatechin-3-gallate. See green tea.

Epilobium angustifolium extract. Extract derived from a plant commonly known as fireweed or willow herb. Can have antimicrobial.

Equisetum arvense. See horsetail extract.

ergocalciferol. Technical name for vitamin D. See vitamin D. ergothioneine. A substance derived from animal tissue or various types of mushrooms that has potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

Eriobotrya japonica. See loquat extract.

erythropoietin (Epo). Stimulates the growth of cells that carry oxygen throughout the body. See human growth factor.

erythrulose. Substance chemically similar to the self-tanning agent dihydroxyacetone. Depending on your skin color, there can be a difference in the color effect with erythrulose. However, dihydroxyacetone completely changes the color of skin within two to six hours, while erythrulose needs about two to three days for the skin to show a color change.

escin. Extract derived from horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum), this ingredient has been prescribed as an oral supplement to reduce some symptoms of chronic vein insufficiency, such as varicose veins, pain, tiredness, tension, swelling in the legs, itching, and edema. However, because horse chestnut contains significant amounts of the toxin esculin, it can be lethal, and some experts recommend not using it. When applied topically, however, there is research showing that a gel containing 2% escin can improve circulation. Results from another study showed a reduction in inflammation in sports injuries when escin was combined with heparin (a mucopolysaccharide used as an anti-clotting medication) and a form of salicylic acid (diethylammonium salicylate). Escin is also a potent antioxidant. As a skin-care ingredient escin clearly has a place, but as for improving cellulite that’s an entirely different story. While it may seem logical that blood flow and cellulite are related, the research just isn’t there to support the notion (or your thighs). Plus, cellulite products contain far less of this ingredient than the amount used in the studies.

esculin. Component of horse chestnut, it is considered a toxin and is not recommended for skin.

essential oil. See volatile oils.

ester. A compound formed from the reaction between an alcohol and an acid via the elimination of water. Triesters (groups of three esters) form the backbone of many fats, waxes, and oils that have emollient and skin-conditioning properties. Almost all of the esters used in cosmetic products are non-irritating and in most cases are quite beneficial for dry skin.

Ester-C. Trade name for a combination form of vitamin C that contains mainly calcium ascorbate, but in addition contains small amounts of the vitamin C metabolites dehydroascorbic acid (oxidized ascorbic acid), calcium threonate, and trace levels of xylonate and lyxonate. The manufacturer of this ingredient states that the metabolites, especially threonate, increase the bioavailability of the vitamin C in the product, and that they performed a study in humans demonstrating the increased bioavailability of vitamin C in Ester-C. However, this study has not been published in a peer-reviewed journal. There is a small, in vitro study that supports the notion that Ester-C is more potent than ascorbic acid by itself. A small published study of vitamin C bioavailability in eight women and one man found no difference between Ester-C and commercially available ascorbic acid tablets with respect to the absorption and excretion of vitamin C. There also are studies that show no difference when comparing the effects of Ester-C with those of ascorbic acid.

estradiol. One of the three main forms of estrogen produced by the body; the other two are estrone and estriol. Estradiol is the most physiologically active form of estrogen. Many hormone replacement therapy (HRT) and birth-control prescription drugs contain estradiol.

ethanol. See alcohol.

ethoxydiglycol. See solvent.

ethyhexylglycerin. A synthetic skin-conditioning agent and as a preservative or as a carrier or suspending agent for other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol.

ethyl alcohol. See alcohol.

ethyl macadamiate. Mixture of fatty acids from macadamia nut oil. See fatty acid and macadamia nut oil.

ethyl vanillin. Flavoring agent derived from vanilla. It has antioxidant properties (Source: Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, April 2004, pages 1872–1881).

ethylhexyl stearate. See stearic acid.

ethylparaben. See parabens.

eucalyptus extract. Extract that may have antibacterial, antifungal, and antiviral properties on the skin. It also may be a skin irritant, particularly on abraded skin. See counter-irritant.

eucalyptus oil. See eucalyptus extract.

Eugenia aromatica. See clove oil.

Eugenia caryophyllus. See clove oil.

eugenol. See clove oil and methyleugenol.

Euphrasia officinalis. See eyebright.

evening primrose oil. Can have significant anti-inflammatory and emollient benefits for skin. However, whether or not evening primrose oil can mitigate certain symptoms of premenstrual syndrome (PMS) is unknown. “Trials of evening primrose oil have also had conflicting results; the two most rigorous studies showed no evidence of benefit”. See gamma linolenic acid.

Evodia rutaecarpa extract. A species of Asian tree whose fragrant fruit functions as a good anti-inflammatory agent in traditional Chinese medicine, an assertion which has been proven via topical application to human skin. It has multiple pharmacological effects when consumed orally, all due to its many chemical constituents and how they react with the body’s systems. Evodia rutaecarpa is generally not considered safe for oral consumption, especially by pregnant women. However, it has shown anti-cancer effects in vitro.

Ext. D&C. Type of coloring agent. According to the FDA, when Ext. D&C is followed by a color, it means that the color is certified as safe for use only in drugs and cosmetics to be used externally, but not around the eyes or mouth. It is not safe for foods.

eyebright. A plant; although the name sounds like it would be beneficial for the eye area, there are no studies demonstrating it has any benefit for the eye area or skin. The information about this plant’s effect on the skin or the eye is strictly anecdotal and ophthalmic use may be harmful.