Skin Care Cosmetics Ingredients Glossary

F

faex. A type of yeast. See yeast.

Fagus sylvatica extract. See yeast.

farnesol. Extract of plants that is used in cosmetics primarily for fragrance. A few animal studies and some in vitro research investigated farnesol’s antibacterial properties (Source: Chemotherapy, July 2002, pages 122–128), and it may also have some antioxidant properties (Source: Journal of Bacteriology, September 1998, pages 4460–4465), but there is no research showing it has any benefit on skin.

farnesyl acetate. See farnesol.

Fatty Acids Organic oils found in vegetable and animal fats. Excellent skin emollients and an important part of the diet.

fatty alcohol. Made from fatty acids; fatty alcohols are used in cosmetics as thickening agents and emollients. They are not drying or irritating forms of alcohol. See fatty acid.

FD&C. Type of coloring agent. According to the FDA, when FD&C is followed by a color, the color is certified as safe for use in food, drugs, and cosmetics.

fennel oil. Volatile, fragrant oil that can cause skin irritation and sensitivity. See fennel seed extract.

fennel seed extract. Can have antioxidant properties, but on skin it can be a skin irritant and photosensitizer (Source: www.naturaldatabase.com).

ferric ammonium ferrocyanide. Inorganic salt of ferric ferrocyanide. See ferric ferrocyanide.

ferric ferrocyanide. Also known as Iron Blue, a coloring agent used in cosmetic products, including those designed for use around the eye. Permanently listed (since 1978) by the FDA as safe, although the EPA considers it toxic when found in water systems.

Ferula foetida . See ferulic acid.

Ferula galbaniflua. See galbanum.

Ferulic acid. A plant-based antioxidant. Research suggests that it provides antioxidant and sun-protective benefits to skin while enhancing the stability of topical applications of vitamin E. As studies concerning this and similar compounds (such as caffeic and ellagic acid) continues, I suspect we will see more antioxidant-based products enhanced with them, which is great news for keeping skin healthy and protecting it from further damage.

feverfew extract. A plant that can be very irritating to the skin and can trigger allergic reactions. The irritation comes from a constituent (more technically, a sesquiterpene lactone) of the feverfew plant known as parthenolide. If the parthenolide is removed from feverfew, the ingredient is not a problem for skin and may actually may beneficial. That’s because parthenolide-free feverfew has potent anti-inflammatory properties and may reduce redness in skin. Interestingly, when parthenolide is present and feverfew is taken orally it has been shown to relieve migraines and have anti-inflammatory properties, including those related to pain reduction for certain types of arthritis. When it comes to skin-care products containing feverfew, you need to contact the company to confirm the feverfew in their products is parthenolide-free. If they don’t know or won’t tell you, do not use the product (this is especially true if you have plant allergies).

fibroblast growth factor (FGF). Within the body, stimulates growth of the nervous system and bone formation. See human growth factor.

fibronectin. Type of protein found in the skin’s intercellular matrix, similar to collagen and elastin. Fibronectin’s deterioration from sun damage and other factors is an element in skin aging and wrinkling. As is true for all proteins, regardless of their origin, it is probably a good water-binding agent for skin. However, applying fibronectin topically on skin doesn’t help reinforce or rebuild the fibronectin in your skin.

Ficus carica fruit extract. See fig.

fig. Fruit that contains psoralens, which are compounds that may cause photodermatitis. Topical application can cause contact dermatitis. Latex from the fruit is used topically to treat skin tumors and warts, which has nothing to do with anti-aging.

Filipendula glaberrima. Also known as Nakai, the root of this plant extract has been shown in vitro to be not only a potent antioxidant but also able to inhibit the expression of collagen-depleting MMP-1 when applied to human fibroblast cells. See matrix metalloproteinases.

Filipendula rubra. See meadowsweet extract.

film-forming agent. Large group of ingredients that are typically found in hair-care products, but that are also widely used in skin-care products, particularly moisturizers. Film-forming agents include PVP, acrylates, acrylamides, and copolymers. When applied they leave a pliable, cohesive, and continuous covering over the hair or skin. This film has water-binding properties and leaves a smooth feel on skin. Film-forming agents can be weak skin sensitizers.

fir needle oil. Volatile, fragrant oil that can cause skin irritation and sensitivity.

fireweed extract. Extract from the Epilobium angustifolium plant; also known as willow herb. See Epilobium angustifolium extract.

fish cartilage extract. May have water-binding properties, but there is no research showing that this has any benefit for skin.

flavonoid. See bioflavonoid.

flax. Plant source of linen and edible seeds. Flax seeds and seed oil have antioxidant properties. The seeds are also a source of linolenic acid. See linolenic acid.

flaxseed oil. From seeds of the flax plant; a source of fatty acids, particularly omega-3. See flax.

floralozone. One of a number of synthetic fragrant components.

Foeniculum vulgare extract. See fennel oil and fennel seed extract.

folic acid. Part of the B-vitamin complex; when taken orally, it is a good antioxidant. That benefit has not been demonstrated when it is applied topically on skin.

formaldehyde-releasing preservative. Common type of preservative found in cosmetics. Despite some claims, there is no higher level of skin reaction to formaldehyde-releasing preservatives than to other preservatives. In fact, there is a far greater risk to skin from a product without preservatives, because of the contamination and unchecked growth of bacteria, fungus, and mold that can result if no preservatives are used. However, there is concern that when formaldehyde-releasing preservatives are present in a formulation that also includes amines, such as triethanolamine (TEA), diethanolamine (DEA), or monoethanolamine (MEA), nitrosamines can be formed, and nitrosamines are carcinogenic substances that can potentially penetrate skin. Whether or not that poses a health risk of any kind has not been established. See preservatives.

fragrance. One or a blend of volatile and/or fragrant plant oils (or synthetically derived oils) that impart aroma and odor to products. These are often skin irritants. See volatile oil.

frankincense extract. Fragrant component used in skin-care products; it can be a skin irritant. There is no research showing frankincense has any benefit for skin (Sources: www.herbmed.com; and www.naturaldatabase.com).

fructose. Often called fruit sugar, fructose is a type of sugar composed of glucose. It has water-binding properties for skin. See water-binding agent.

fruit acid. See sugarcane extract.

Fu ling. See Poria cocos extract.

Fucus vesiculosus extract. See bladderwrack extract.

fuller’s earth. Mineral substance that is similar to kaolin (a clay). Composed mainly of alumina, silica, iron oxides, lime, magnesia, and water, it is used as an absorbent and thickening agent in cosmetics.

fumaric acid. Naturally occurring acid that has been proven effective for systemic and topical treatment of severe psoriasis vulgaris. In small amounts it can be used as a pH adjuster in cosmetics.