Skin Care Cosmetics Ingredients Glossary

H

Hamamelis virginiana. See witch hazel.

hamamelitannin. Tannin that is found in witch hazel. It can be a skin irritant, but it also has potent antioxidant properties. See tannin.

Haslea ostrearia extract. Extract derived from a water plant also known as blue algae. In pure concentrations this extract can have antiviral properties on skin. See algae.

hawthorn extract. Extract that when taken orally may improve circulation. The bioflavonoids in hawthorn are potent antioxidants. But there is no research showing that this extract has any benefit for skin.

hayflower extract. Plant extract that, due to its constricting effect on skin, can be an irritant. There is no research supporting the claim that it has any effect on skin.

hazelnut oil. Oil extracted from the hazelnut and that is used as an emollient. See natural moisturizing factor (NMF).

heavy water. Water in which hydrogen atoms have been replaced by deuterium; it is used chiefly as a coolant in nuclear reactors.

Hedera helix. See English ivy extract.

hedione. Synthetic fragrant component in products, which also can be a skin irritant.

helianthus oil. See sunflower oil.

hemp seed oil. From the hemp plant, Cannabis sativa. Because both hemp and marijuana are from the genus Cannabis, they are often thought (erroneously) to have similar properties. However, because hemp contains virtually no THC (delta-9-tetrahydrocannabinol), the active ingredient in marijuana, it is not used as a drug of any kind. In cosmetics, hemp seed oil is used as an emollient. Other claims about its effect on skin are not substantiated. See fatty acid.

hepatocyte growth factor (HGF). Stimulates division in cells lining the liver, skin cells, and cells that produce skin color. See human growth factor.

hesperidin. Flavonoid found in various plants such as citrus and evening primrose oil. It has potential as a potent antioxidant—reducing the effects of sun damage and preventing some cancers. It is also taken orally to improve circulation and to strengthen capillaries. There is no published research showing it combats cellulite (Sources: Photochemistry and Photobiology, September 2003, pages 256–261; Phytotherapy Research, December 2001, pages 655–669; and Anticancer Research, July-August 1999, pages 3237–3241).

hesperidin methyl chalcone. Citrus bioflavonoid often seen in products claiming to banish dark undereye circles. There is research supporting its internal use as an aid to venous (vein) problems. One study documented that it lowers the filtration rate of capillaries, and less blood flowing though capillaries close to the surface of the skin potentially means that less hemoglobin would be oxygenated to cause the dark bluish discoloration under the eyes. However, there is no substantiated research proving that it will have this effect when this ingredient is applied topically.

Another study detailed this ingredient’s use when combined with the root of the Ruscus aculeatus plant and vitamin C, but again it was about oral consumption for alleviating symptoms of varicose veins and helping prevent them from becoming a chronic disease (Source: International Angiology, September 2003, pages 250–262). It is clear from published research that hesperidin methyl chalcone does have various benefits for the body, but diminishing severe dark circles via topical application is not one of them.

hexyl laurate. Skin-conditioning agent and emollient that is a mixture of hexyl alcohol and lauric acid.

hexyldecanol. A synthetic, non-drying fatty alcohol uses as an emollient and skin-conditioning agent.

hexylene glycol. See propylene glycol.

Himanthalia elongate extract. Extract of a species of algae. See algae.

Hippophae rhamnoides. See sea buckthorn.

histidine. See amino acid.

hoelen. A mushroom that grows underground on the roots of pines and other trees around the world. It has antibacterial, preservative, wound-healing, and water-binding properties when applied topically. homosalate. FDA-approved sunscreen active ingredient that primarily provides UVB protection. Its UVA range is very narrow, and as such it is rarely used on its own in sunscreens. Homosalate is internationally approved for use in sunscreens, up to a maximum concentration of 15%. It is considered non-sensitizing, non-toxic, and is most often seen in sunscreens rated SPF 30 and greater.

honey. A substance produced by bees from the nectar of certain flowering plants. Primarily consumed as food, honey also has applications when it comes to skin care. This is due to its amino acid, peptide, and vitamin content. The primary research on honey and skin has to do with its role in wound healing. It role in wound-healing is multi-faceted: it protects the wound and its sugars serve as a food source for bacteria that may otherwise prolong healing or cause infection. For general skin care where wounds are not involved (and remember, wrinkles are not wounds) honey has anti-inflammatory properties and also functions as an antioxidant. Dark honeys have a stronger antioxidant effect compared with light honeys. Regular honey is also known as clarified honey or purified honey.

hops. There is no research showing that hops have any benefit for skin. However, components in hops may have antioxidant and antibacterial properties. The plant may also have estrogenic properties.

Hordeum vulgare extract. See barley extract.

horse chestnut extract. May have anti-inflammatory properties for skin. Orally it has been shown to reduce edema in the lower leg by improving the elastic tissue surrounding the vein. See escin.

horse elder. See elecampane.

horseradish. Plant that can irritate skin and should never be applied to abraded skin.

horsetail extract. Plant extract that has a high tannin, alkaloid, and nicotine content, which can have skin-constricting properties and be irritating to skin (Source: www.herbmed.org). It also has antioxidant properties, but there are many other potent antioxidants that can be used that do not cause skin irritation.

Huang qi. See milk vetch root.

humectant. See water-binding agent.

Humulus lupulus extract. See hops.

hyaluronic acid. Component of skin tissue that is used in skin-care products as a good water-binding agent. See natural moisturizing factor (NMF).

Hydnocarpus anthelmintica. See chaulmoogra oil.

Hydrastis canadenis. See goldenseal.

hydrocortisone. Hormone from the adrenal gland that can also be created synthetically. It has potent anti-inflammatory properties for skin, but prolonged use can destroy collagen in the skin and cause skin fragility.

hydrocotyl extract. See Centella asiatica.

hydrogen peroxide. There is a great deal of current research showing that hydrogen peroxide is problematic as a topical disinfectant because it can greatly reduce the production of healthy new skin cells. Hydrogen peroxide is also a strong oxidizing agent, meaning that it generates free-radical damage. While it can function as a disinfectant, the cumulative problems that can stem from impacting the skin with a substance that is known to generate free-radical damage, impair the skin’s healing process, cause cellular destruction, and reduce optimal cell functioning are serious enough that it is better to avoid its use. See free-radical damage.

hydrogenated coco-glyceride. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester.

hydrogenated didecene. Skin-conditioning agent derived from didecene, which is a hydrocarbon. Hydrocarbons are organic compounds that contain only carbon and hydrogen. Examples of common hydrocarbons include mineral oil, petroleum, and paraffin wax.

hydrogenated lecithin. See lecithin.

hydrogenated palm glyceride. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester.

hydrogenated polydecene. Synthetic polymer that functions as an emollient and skin-conditioning agent.

hydrogenated polyisobutene. Synthetic polymer used as a skin-conditioning agent and emollient.

hydrolyzed jojoba esters. Essential fatty acids from the jojoba plant, broken down by water to form a new complex with properties different from the original source. An analogy of this process is the manner in which humans digest food to turn it into energy. Jojoba esters function as skin-conditioning agents.

hydrolyzed silk. See silk.

hydrolyzed vegetable protein. Composed of various protein substances derived from vegetables and broken down by water to form a new complex with properties different from the original source. Used as a water-binding agent.

Hydroquinone. A skin bleaching agent that can reduce the intensity of pigmentation due to freckles, melasma, and senile lentigines. When applied to the skin over a period of several months, the skin temporarily becomes somewhat lighter. For continued and increased effectiveness it must be used for a longer term. Sun exposure should be avoided because it reverses the effect of hydroquinone by increasing skin pigmentation. Occasionally, at higher concentrations, persons with a darker skin type will experience increased pigmentation. There is mild skin irritation and the possibility of an allergic reaction.

hydroxyethylcellulose. Plant-derived thickening agent typically used as a binding agent or emulsifier. Also used (most often in styling products) as a film-forming agent.

hydroxylated lecithin. See lecithin.

hydroxyproline. Derived from the amino acid proline, hydroxyproline is a fundamental component of collagen and other structural proteins. Skin’s ability to heal is partly determined by the presence of hydroxyproline within it. Whether topical application of hydroxyproline to the skin can help with wound healing has not been substantiated. However, it does have water-binding properties similar to those of collagen.

hydroxypropyl guar. See guar gum.

Hypericum extract. See St. John’s wort.

hypoallergenic. Term used by the cosmetics industry to lead consumers to believe they are using a product that will not cause them to have an allergic or sensitizing skin reaction to a product. However, the word hypoallergenic is not regulated in any manner by the FDA and therefore it is used indiscriminately by cosmetics companies without any substantiation or need to show proof of the claim.

hyssop. Fragrant plant extract that may have some antibacterial properties (Source: International Journal of Food Microbiology, August 2001, pages 187–195). It may also be a skin irritant.