Skin Care Cosmetics Ingredients Glossary
N
N6-furfuryladenine. Technical name for kinetin. See kinetin.
N-acetyl-L tyrosine. See tyrosine.
NaPCA. See natural moisturizing factor (NMF) and sodium PCA.
Narcissus poeticus wax. Fragrant flower extract that can cause irritation and dermatitis (Source: www.naturaldatabase.com).
Nardostachys jatamansi. See spikenard.
Nasturtium officinale extract. See watercress extract.
natto gum. Fermentation product of soy protein. It may be a potent antioxidant (Source: Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, June 2002, pages 3592–3596).
natural ingredient. The FDA has tried to establish official definitions and guidelines for the use of certain terms such as natural and hypoallergenic, but its regulations were overturned in court. That means that cosmetics companies can use these terms on ingredient labels to mean anything they want, with the result that they almost always mean nothing at all. The term all-natural has considerable market value in promoting cosmetic products to consumers, but a close look at an ingredient label reveals that plant extracts make up only a small percentage of the product. Plus, when a plant is added to a cosmetic, preserved, and stabilized with other ingredients, it loses its natural qualities.
natural moisturizing factor (NMF). One of the primary elements in keeping skin healthy is making sure the structure of the epidermis (outer layer of skin) is intact. The components that do this are often called natural moisturizing factor (NMF) or ingredients that mimic the structure and function of healthy skin. While the oil and fat components of skin prevent evaporation and provide lubrication to the surface of skin, it is actually the intercellular matrix, along with the skin’s lipid content, that gives skin a good deal of its surface texture and feel.
neem extract or oil. Extract from leaves of the neem tree, it has potential toxic effects, although it also has been shown to have antimicrobial properties (Sources: Life Sciences, January 2001, pages 1153–1160; Journal of Ethnopharmacology, August 2000, pages 377–382; Phytotherapy Research, February 1999, pages 81–83; and Mutation Research, June 1998, pages 247–258).
neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent.
neopentyl glycol diheptanoate. Mixture of neopentyl glycol (film-forming agent and solvent) and heptanoic acid (fatty acid made from grapes), the compound functions as a non-aqueous skin-conditioning agent and thickener.
neroli. See orange blossom.
neroli oil. Fragrant plant oil that can be a skin irritant and sensitizer.
nettle extract. Extract that may have anti-inflammatory properties (Source: Healthnotes Review of Complementary and Integrative Medicine, www.healthwell.com/healthnotes/Herb/Nettle.cfm).
niacin. See niacinamide.
niacinamide. Also called vitamin B3, niacin, and nicotinic acid, this water-soluble ingredient is stable in the presence of heat and light. Topical application of niacinamide has been shown to increase ceramide and free fatty acid levels in skin, prevent skin from losing water content, and stimulate microcirculation in the dermis. Another study seconded P&G’s findings that niacinamide is a helpful ingredient for addressing skin discolorations. It appears that topical niacinamide has an inhibitory effect on the transfer of melanosomes to skin cells, thus it interrupts the process that causes irregular pigmentation to form.
nicotinamide. See niacinamide.
nicotinic acid. See niacinamide.
nitrogen. Used as a propellant in cosmetic products; as nitric oxide, it can generate free-radical damage and cause cell death establishing its benefit for skin, but it does not appear to be harmful in its pure form.
nonoxynols. Used as mild surfactants. See surfactant.
nordihydroguaiaretic acid. Component of some plants that has been shown to have anticancer properties for skin and that may also protect skin from sun damage; also a potent antioxidant.
nylon-12. Powder substance that is used as an absorbent and thickening agent.
Nymphaea tetragona. Also known as pygmy waterlily. The stem has been shown in vitro to be not only a potent antioxidant but also able to inhibit the expression of collagen-depleting MMP-1 when applied to human fibroblast cells. See matrix metalloproteinases.