Anti-Aging Peptide Active Ingredients
– Matrixyl® (Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4) and Matrixyl®3000 (palmitoyl oligopeptide & palmitoyl-tetrapeptide-7)
Matrixyl® is the earlier version of Matrixyl®3000. You may wonder what happened between Matrixyl and Matrixyl 3000. What about Matrixyl 1 through 2999? The names, of course, are marketing gimmicks. The difference between Matrixyl® and Matrixyl®3000 is that Matrixyl is Palmitoyl Pentapeptide; Matrixyl®3000 is Palmitoyl oligopeptide plus Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide. Both of them are made by the ingredient manufacturer, Sederma. Sederma is a subsidiary of the Croda International Group, a worldwide leader in the development of active ingredients for the cosmetic industry. These two peptides are also called “matrikine” which means they can recreate conditions conducive to cell and matrix turnover. Matrikines are small endogenous peptides derived from matrix proteolysis. They act as cell messengers able to regulate the sequence of events required for skin repair (wound healing). To a certain degree, wrinkles may be considered localised defects due to deficient repair related to the ageing of the cutaneous functionsof tissue repair and turnover.
Molecular Structure
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (PP-4) in Matrixyl® was originally named Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 and later renamed to reflect a correction in the data on its molecular structure. The structure of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is Pal-KTTKS which stands for a fatty acid palmitic acid (Pal) is attached to a peptide with 5 amino acids [lysine-Threonine-Threonine-lysine-serine].
The name of Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3 in Matrixyl®3000 has been changed to Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 in the International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient (INCI) Directory. Its sturcture is Pal-GQPR, i.e. a palmitic acid is attached to the peptide with 4 amino acids (glycine-glutamine-proline-arginine).
The other peptide in Matrixyl®3000 is palmitoyl oligopeptide — either palmitoyl tripeptide or palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (the peptide in the early version of Matrixyl®). The structure for the palmitoyl tripeptide is Pal-GHK, i.e. a palmitic acid is attached to a peptide with 3 amino acid (glycine-histidine-lysine).
Here is the ICNI name for Matrixyl® and Matrixyl®3000
INCI Name for Matrixyl®3000: Glycerin (and) Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Carbomer (and) Polysorbate 20 (and) Palmitoyl Oligopeptide (and) Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
INCI Name for Matrixyl®: Glycerin (And) Water (Aqua) (And) Butylene glycol (And) Carbomer (And) Polysorbate 20 (And) Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4
Anti-Aging Benefits
Matrixyl3000® is clinically proven to promote collagen production in the skin. Matrixyl 3000® remarkably encourages skin tissue to restore itself to a more youthful strength while promoting deep tissue repair. MATRIXYL™ 3000 utilizes the two matrikines™ for their synergistic effect in the neosynthesis of extracellular matrix molecules (collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid) to significantly reduce the appearance of wrinkles. The recommended concentration use level by sederma is 3%-8%. This percentage is calculated based on the Sedema’s proprietary stock solution of Matrixyl 3000 (of undisclosed strength) rather than pure peptides.
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (Pal-KTTKS) is structurally related to the precursor of collagen type I (a.k.a. procollagen type I). When palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (peptide in Matrixyl®) is added to cultured human fibroblasts (the cell produce collagen, elastin, and other extracellular matrix molecules), it stimulates them to produce collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid which are key components of the extra-cellular matrix. Scientists at Ultra Aesthetics Labs, found that it stimulated collagen IV synthesis by 100 to 327% and hyaluronic acid synthesis by 267%. In vivo, it was found to stimulate collagen synthesis by 30 to 117%.
Next they used image analysis to determine the affect palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 had on wrinkled skin after six months of daily application. The six-month results are listed below, though they noted that significant results were seen in two months.
- Mean wrinkle depth: -17%
- Surface area containing deep wrinkles: -68%
- Surface area containing moderate wrinkles: -51%
- Mean density of wrinkled area: -47%
- Skin roughness: -16%
- Main wrinkle volume: -24%
The proponents claim that palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is at least as effective against wrinkles as retinol (vitamin A) but does not cause skin irritation, which is a common side-effect of retinoids.
Palmitoyl tripeptide (Pal-GHK) can stimulate production of collagen. The peptide GHK is a fragment of type I collagen molecule and is believed to serve as a biological indicator of increased degradation of the skin matrix. Indeed, when collagen is degraded, more of its small fragments get created in the body, including GHK. Furthermore, GHK is believed to stimulate the feedback loop triggering the synthesis of new collagen as well as other components of the skin matrix. When the key skin matrix-producing cells (fibroblasts) detect increased levels of GHK, they “assume” that the skin matrix is being lost at a higher rate and begin synthesizing it more vigorously (feedback loop). Thus, Pal-GHK (a version of GHK designed for better skin penetration) is intended to stimulate skin matrix replenishment via topical application, leading, presumably, to wrinkle reduction, skin firming and other benefits.
Another interesting point about the GHK is that it is a part of another well known skin care ingredient, the copper peptide Cu-GHK. Copper peptides are known to improve wound healing, activate skin remodeling, improve the structure of skin matrix, reduce scarring and exert other beneficial effects on the skin. The skin benefits of copper peptides are relatively well researched and established
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 can suppress the body’s production of excess interleukins and is therefore has anti-inflammatory properties. . IL-6 is a molecule that promotes inflammation, which, in turn, leads to faster degradation of the skin matrix and thus contributes to the development of wrinkles and loss of skin firmness and elasticity. In addition, this peptide can also inhibit glycation and is an anti-glycation agent. The higher the concentration of Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, the greater the reduction in interleukin production – up to 40%.
Clinical study proof
According to croda.usa official web site: “Clinical studies show that Matrixyl™ 3000 lifts and firms the skin, significantly reducing the appearance of wrinkles. After only 2 months, the surface area of the skin occupied by deep wrinkles (> 200µm) was reduced by 45% on average”.
According to Sederma, the synergy between palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 is dramatic. They reported a tissue culture study where Matrixyl 3000 increased the synthesis of skin matrix roughly 2.5-3.5 times. In particular, the synthesis of collagen type I increased by 258%, fibronectin – by 164% and hyaluronic acid – by 179%.
Sederma also reported a small human study involving two groups of 24 volunteers where Matrixyl 3000 performed considerably better than placebo and somewhat better than “classic” Matrixyl, including the following beneficial effects after two month of daily application *:
- Reduction in main wrinkle depth (-15%) and volume (-18%)
- Reduction in roughness (-14%)
- Reduction in complexity (-16%), “lifting” parameter
- Decrease in the area occupied by deep wrinkles (>200 microns) (-44%), -37% decrease in density
- Increase in skin tone (+15%)
Scientists at Dermaprin Labs studied the efficacy of the two polypeptides not only independently (with similar results to those above) but also tested them in combination. They concluded, “Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 combined with Palmitoyl Oligopeptide in the product showed a complementary gene activation profile with stimulation of protein remodeling and cell proliferation in excess of what was achieved by either one alone. In vitro, the two peptides showed synergistic effects on the synthesis of collagen I, fibronectin and hyaluronic acid. The clinical studies thus validate the synergistic approach.”
Based on the data from Sedema corporation as well as user feedback, Matrixyl 3000 appears to be virtually free of any obvious side effects in short-term use. The effects and side effects of its long-term use are unknown.
Products contain Matrixyl™ 3000
Bellaplex, Bioque Serum XL, Caracol Cream, Hydroxatone AM/PM Rejuvenating Treatment SPF15, Lift SP, prototype #37-C, Revitol Complete Anti-Aging